​I was on a long drive down from Spain after a stay with Tony Butt in Asturias. I had no idea where the hell I was going, but got tired late at night and just pulled randomly off the highway and crashed at a hotel near the beach.  I woke up the next morning and the skies were clear and the wind offshore.  I drove towards the ocean and this was the first wave I saw.  There were three guys out.  Dumb luck is sometimes the best luck of all.